hardboiled

To Eat or Not to Eat, That is the Question

The Role of Asian Fusion Cuisine in Understanding APA Identity

Apparently white people like Asian fusion food. And sushi and tea. At least according to the blog, stuffwhitepeoplelike.com. This blog is mostly for entertainment purposes and is certainly not the most reliable source to find out the predilections of our whiter counterparts. While these Asian-oriented posts may seem to perpetuate the fetish for oriental paraphernalia, it serves as a starting point in breaking some of the stereotypes on Asian American food.

Asian fusion cuisine is an eclectic approach to food that integrates a variety of ingredients from various cuisines and regions into dishes. While the integration of “oriental” salads onto various fast food menus and the popularity of Iron Chef, a Japanese cooking competition show, may suggest that fusion food is a recent trend, it actually has its roots to imperialism. For example, Hong Kong cuisine, Vietnamese sandwiches, and Hawaiian cuisine are all heavily influenced by years of European occupancy and serve as a positive marker of the colonial legacy. Today, Asian fusion food serves a similar function to integrate the different influences that American culture have on the Asian American identity. Many of the Asian fusion restaurants are owned by Asian Americans and give them the opportunity to express what it means to be Asian American through their food.

Just as identities are often prescribed to individuals, Asian cuisine suffers from similar treatment. The larger American society has shows Asian cuisine as two extremes. Asian cuisine has been produced by the larger American society. Based on immediate reaction, one would not associate Asian cuisine with fine dining. the prevalence of Asian food stands in mall food courts has put Asian American food in a mundane light with a degraded quality. White take-out boxes with red pagodas and fortune cookies have become American cultural icons. Television shows like Seinfield or Gilmore Girls would not be the same without Chinese food. However, Asian cuisine does exist outside of chop suey, pad thai, and teriyaki chicken bowls. Unfortunately, many taking this stance posit Asian cuisine on the other extreme as being “exotic”. This image is also circulated by American chef Anthony Bourdain in his television series, No Reservations, where he frequently features eccentric delicacies from Asian countries. While one can appreciate Bourdain’s genuine interest in Asian ethnic foods, he does not portray Asian cuisine in an accurate light. Ultimately, Bourdain misinforms his audience by allowing them to believe that his show presents an authentic sampling of Asian cuisine.

Asian fusion cuisine allows Asian Americans to take a stand against how Asian food is typically portrayed. This unique approach to food subtly demonstrates the robustness of the ethnic identity despite assimilation. It also suggests the use of a different analogy to describe American culture. Instead of the “melting pot” or “mixed salad”, America is like an ice cream bar. A scoop of vanilla, a little sprinkles, diced fruits, maybe some fudge—we customize the use of available resources to make it our own by considering preferences. For example, chef Roy Choi opened Kogi, a popular Korean taco truck in Los Angeles to bring his “ethnic background together with the sensibility and geography of Los Angeles.” Similarly, Surapol Mekpongsatorn created the restaurant Thaitalian, formerly located in downtown Pasadena, to bring his love of Italian food with Thai cuisine.

So, white people aren't the only ones that like Asian fusion food. Asian people like it too. The next time you are confused about being Asian American, follow the wise words of Anthelme Brillat-Savarin--"you are what you eat" and try eating curry over spaghetti. It may be easier to think on a full stomch. And who knew that resolving identity crises could be so tasty? Basically, being Asian American is not an "either-or" scenari--there shouldn't be a struggle between the two identities. Instead, as demonstrated by Asian fusion food they should be supportive of each other. This understanding takese a little creativity and a lot of courage to try something new. Just as creating a good dish takes practice and experience, so does the personal reconsolidation of the diversity behind the two cultures. But one can start by thinking outside of the to-go box.